Thursday, July 08, 2010

Flowers!

Kenya is a big horticultural exporter, and there are lots of beautiful flowers all around, even now during "wintertime".  This one is in my backyard:


These were in my house when I moved in, and a week later they still look great:


Someone told me you can buy a dozen roses for about 300 Kenyan shillings, which is a little less than $5.  Nice deal for the husbands and boyfriends!

Tuesday, July 06, 2010

...And now I have internet at home!  Just need to get my wireless router and it will be perfect!

First day at work

Had my first day at work today - starting at 7:15am!  But at least I get to leave at 4:30, and 12:30 on Fridays.


The OFDA team I'm going to be working with had my cubicle all set up and ready for me, which was nice:



It was a good, busy day, mostly spent meeting people and doing paperwork.  But I found out I'm going on a trip next week to northeastern Kenya to visit one of our partners' projects, which is very exciting!  And it sounds like there will be lots more trips and interesting work to come, so I'm very happy.

Now if I can just get internet at my house, and maybe some food in the fridge... (please note that internet is the higher priority).

Monday, July 05, 2010

Hawkers' Market

This morning a colleague (new friend?) took me to Hawkers' Market, which is a big outdoor/covered market with lots of individual vendors selling vegetables, fruits, etc, just like I was used to shopping at in Senegal.  It made me so happy, especially as I'd been feeling weirded out by how patron/expat-y my life here is so far.  The market wasn't crowded at all, and was a lot more laid-back than they ever were in Senegal, so that was nice, but my colleague said it was just because we went early on a Monday.  So we'll see what it's like next time (and maybe I will take some pictures).  But in any case, I'm much happier having found that place.  Now I just need to find a special favorite vegetable lady like I had in Senegal.

Saturday, July 03, 2010

2nd day in Nairobi

This morning I went to brunch with some other DLIs (new USAID staff like me).  Everybody was really nice, and I may be on my way to making some friends!  Then my social sponsor took me around town a bit more - I am really liking Nairobi so far, except have I mentioned it's freezing cold?  The last two days have been very gray like it's about to rain, and I'm wearing a shirt, a sweater, and a jacket.  Weird to come from America to Africa and have to bundle up more.

Still working on unpacking and fixing up my house, but I'm not being very diligent about it - the internet is so much more interesting!

Friday, July 02, 2010

Nairobi!!

Just a quick post because I'm jetlagged and I'm supposed to be unpacking:

I got in to Nairobi airport last night around 8pm.  The airport is much bigger and nicer than Dakar airport, so that was nice.  I got to go through the "fast lane" at passport control (finally my dip. passport was good for something!), but then I discovered that that was pointless because that just meant I had to wait longer at the baggage carousel for my bags to come.

The Embassy "Expediter" met me at the bag carousel (apparently she'd tried to meet me before passport control, but I didn't know to look for her there so I didn't notice her) and then helped me get through customs.  There I was met by a woman from the OFDA office (where I'll be working) who bargained with the money changers to get me a good rate on Kenyan shillings, and then we hopped in the OFDA (right-hand side drive) car driven by an official driver, and they drove me to where I'll be living.  They said that even late at night traffic can be bad and sometimes the trip will take several hours, but we got lucky and it only took 15-20 minutes.

Then we arrived at my house!


The OFDA people soon left, but my "social sponsor" who is another new-ish USAID employee like me came over and showed me around the house.  It's very weird having a kitchen big enough to fit my entire DC apartment inside it; I started getting a little tired of it today while I was unpacking - in DC if I needed something, no matter where I was it was only about 3 feet away.  Now I have to walk all the way upstairs/downstairs to the other side of the house.  But I'm sure I will get used to it!

Today I am just hanging around, unpacking/being jetlagged while everyone else deals with official 4th of July celebration preparations.  Hopefully soon people will start to get back here and maybe I can start making friends.

On the road again…

The past month has been crazy.  Somehow it ended up that my annual employee evaluation, the paperwork for the student loan repayment program, and all the paperwork and other errands for getting ready to move happened all at the same time.  So I’ve spent a huge chunk of the past month just doing paperwork and stalking people in our HR department to make sure that everything was moving along as it should be.  I got in a little “real” work as well, but not much.

But all the stress and running around and craziness finally paid off.  Monday last week the movers came to my apartment and packed everything up to have it shipped to Nairobi for me.  They were supposed to show up at 8:30am and finish within about three hours, but of course instead they didn’t show up until 11:30 and then didn’t finish for seven hours.  But it got done, which is all that really matters, and I was able to turn in my apartment keys and stop worrying about whether I would really get moved out of my apartment by the end of the month before the management threw my stuff out in the street so the new resident could move in.  Yay!

I stayed in a hotel for ten days, courtesy of the government (thanks, taxpayers!) to make moving out of my apartment easier.  I had looked forward to it, thinking it would be like being on vacation except that I would still have to go to work, but as it turns out I prefer sleeping in my own bed and having my clothes on hangers in the closet rather than rumpled in my suitcase.  Maid service was still nice, though.

Finally, Tuesday was the big day.  I went to the airport early, lugged my three suitcases to the Delta counter to check in, and then was told I had to go check in with KLM, Delta’s “partner” for this flight.  (Apparently this partner stuff is how they get around the Fly America Act which requires flights paid for with government money to be on US carriers).  So I lugged my three suitcases across the airport to the KLM counter.  The KLM check-in woman told me my suitcases were too heavy, so I would have to move some things out of the checked luggage, which gets weighed, to my carryon bag, which doesn’t get weighed.  This doesn’t make much sense to me since the same amount of weight is going to end up on the plane, but fine.  I rearranged things, got my boarding pass, got through security, and finally made it onto the plane.  Yippee!

The flight to Amsterdam was fine, no incidents.  The landing was super smooth, prompting some of the passengers to break out into applause, which I thought was funny but kind of sweet.  I’d hoped that there would be a line at passport control for diplomatic passport holders, just for fun, but no such luck.  But I made it out of the airport hassle-free, and then went to wait for the 5 euro airport shuttle.  It was 8am in Amsterdam, which equaled 2am in D.C., and I was exhausted.  After about 30 minutes I finally gave up waiting for the shuttle and went to get a taxi.  I was staying at the Marriott airport hotel (thanks again, taxpayers!), so I figured it would be close by and the taxi ride wouldn’t be expensive.  Big mistake – the 10 minute ride cost 30 euros, and my regret was compounded by the shuttle arriving just five minutes later.  But you live, you learn, and my five minute head start put me at the head of the line for getting a room as soon as the maids finished cleaning one (an hour later). 

I’d hoped I’d have the energy to go out and do some touristing around Amsterdam, but I ended up sleeping til 4pm, so I only went for a short walk in a residential area around Central Station.  But it was a nice way to get an idea of what it would be like to live in Amsterdam – live on a houseboat, ride a bicycle everywhere, hang out at cafes – in short, European heaven, except that there isn’t enough sun for me, so I’m still be glad to be heading back to Africa.





This morning it was back to the airport for me for my flight to Nairobi.  I tried to check in at the automatic kiosk, but it gave me an error message about my flight status requiring me to check in with a real person.  So I waited in a long line to speak with a real person, and then she told me that my suitcases were too heavy, and she also weighed my carryon bag and said that was too heavy.  Also, apparently the flight was overbooked and so I was going to be bumped to another flight – maybe in the evening, and maybe not til tomorrow.  Not good news, especially when I am jetlagged and haven’t had any coffee.  So I rearranged my luggage, this time taking everything heavy out of my carryon and putting it in a checked bag, and then I still had to pay a 100 euro fine.  Boo.  I guess the overnight stopover in Europe wasn’t such a good idea after all. 

The check-in woman gave me a standby boarding pass so I could get through security, and then I was supposed to talk to the airline staff at the gate to see if I could get a seat or if I would have to get bumped.  I got ready to use my very best African bargaining skills to try to get on the plane, and I even considered trying “I’m holding a diplomatic passport and I’m on government business” to see if that would get me anywhere.  (Amsterdam is nice but I’m ready to get to Nairobi and get settled in).

But before I had to pull out my African bargaining skills, the woman at the gate gave me a real boarding pass with a seat assignment.  Yay!  And then as I boarded the plane, the flight attendant directed me to my seat “upstairs” (it’s one of those giant planes with a small upstairs cabin).  So I hauled my suitcase up the little stairway, and discovered that they gave me a seat in business class – awesome!  (Definitely worth the 100 euro luggage fine).  I don’t think it’s because of my diplomatic passport since none of the check-in people looked at the cover that says it’s a diplomatic passport.  They just went straight to the picture page with my information on it.  So I guess I just got lucky, and I will have to see if the diplomatic passport has any power some other time.

I’m sorry to say that business class airplane food still tastes like airplane food, even though they put a little tablecloth on my tray table and serve the food on real dishes.  



The reclining seat with the footrest and the nicer pillow and blanket are much appreciated, though, as are the better headphones (movie selection is the same as for the proletariat).  All in all, I have to say I wouldn’t mind flying business class again someday! No more unnecessary overnight stopovers, though – getting real sleep is nice, but not really worth all the hassle of having to check in and go through airport security again.

Next blog post: from Nairobi!

Saturday, June 12, 2010

A good article about U.S. food aid

The Plumpy Crusader

A new resource offers hope for the hungry, but Congress still holds the keys to food aid.

As Navyn Salem starts up the machines for the first time at her factory in Providence, R.I., this month, she has all the anxieties of any new business owner: whether the equipment will work, who will buy her products, how to cover her employees' benefits, and how to raise the profile of Edesia, the food-manufacturing producer she's launching. To that list, add a few more unconventional ones: how to make Edesia the first successful nonprofit provider of ready-to-use therapeutic (RUTF) food aid in the United States, how to revolutionize treatment of childhood malnutrition, and how to transform decades of counterproductive U.S. humanitarian aid policies, which place fiercely protectionist requirements on the food products that can be sent abroad during emergencies.

Read more...

DC "celebrity" sighting

On my way to dinner tonight, I saw House minority leader John Boehner having dinner at another restaurant across the street.  The photo I took isn't very good since my camera phone doesn't have zoom, but he's the guy at the left side of the table on the right:


The guys at the table just to the left are his security guys, probably Secret Service.  When I got out of the car, I was just looking over at John Boehner for a bit, which apparently made the security guy mad.  So he started glaring at me, and then he took a picture of me with his camera phone, probably to run through the FBI database later.  I thought it was pretty funny.  I wonder if they'll figure out who I am?  (If they're smart, they'll google "John Boehner" and probably find this blog entry).

Monday, June 07, 2010

USAID in the Wash Post!

An article about Rajiv Shah, the USAID Administrator, in the Washington Post:


Rajiv Shah, USAID director, on tackling global hunger and why women lead the way


Washington Post Staff Writer
Monday, June 7, 2010

The number of people suffering from hunger has now topped 1 billion globally -- the highest since 1970, according to the United Nations. U.S. foreign-aid director Rajiv Shah, 37, recently presented the Obama administration's strategy to tackle the food crisis.

"Feed the Future" will focus on improving the agricultural systems of at least 20 countries. It's part of an international effort that could benefit 40 million poor people over a decade, officials say.

Read more...

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Bye bye, rent!

Paid my last rent for possibly a very long time today.  Feels good.

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Kenya’s Constitution Becomes New Front in Culture Wars - NYTimes.com

Kenya’s Constitution Becomes New Front in Culture Wars - NYTimes.com

By JEFFREY GETTLEMAN
Published: May 13, 2010

NAIROBI, Kenya — The push to pass a new constitution in Kenya, a cornerstone of the effort to correct longstanding imbalances of power and prevent the kind of upheaval that followed deeply flawed elections here, has attracted some unexpected interference — from more than 7,000 miles away.

Before Kenyan lawmakers had even finished drafting the proposed constitution, American Christians organized petition drives in Kenya against it, objecting to a provision recognizing Islamic courts.

Now that the draft is done, three Republican members of Congress contend that it significantly expands abortion rights, and are accusing the United States Embassy in Kenya of openly supporting it in violation of federal rules.

Sarah Palin comes to the RRB

This morning when I walked into work, a man behind me asked the security guard, "Is this where the Sarah Palin breakfast is?"

!!?

I didn't hear the guard's answer, but when I got my computer turned on I googled "Sarah Palin" and "Ronald Reagan Building", and sure enough, she was in my building this morning for a "Celebration of Life" breakfast.

I mentioned it to my supervisor, just to say that this is a very weird life I have where Sarah Palin might randomly show up in the building where I work, and she said that if I wanted I could go and try to "accidentally" bump into her.  I thought about it, but then I decided better not, because I would want to heckle her and that's probably not allowed during the work day.

So I didn't see Sarah Palin today, but I was for two hours in the same building with her.  Thinking about it still makes me feel like I am having some sort of Twilight Zone experience.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Book review

I was really excited when I started at USAID to discover that they have a library - full of technical books about development, as well as novels and movies set in other countries.  Basically, my version of heaven, except with bad fluorescent lighting.  And, to make it even better, we can request books if they don't have something we want.

So, a month or two ago, I requested a book about feminist movements within Islam, which they ordered for me. And then, the secret catch came: they wanted me to write a book review about it for the library newsletter, so other people will want to read it too.

So, since I did all that work, and it was a pretty good and interesting book, I thought I'd post my review here.  (Many thanks to my editor who made it sound much more nice and literary than when I first wrote it).


Review of Paradise Beneath Her Feet by Isobel Coleman

 
Much of the discussion about Islam in the West today seems to assume an incompatibility between Western values and Islam: from a religious defense of violence, to the subjugation of women, to the near sacralization of domestic abuse, Islam is often portrayed as backward and repressive.  But in Paradise Beneath Her Feet Isobel Coleman showcases an Islam which not only affirms women, but has a long and rich history of defending them. 

Among the insightful jewels in Paradise Beneath Her Feet are: in 1898 a Muslim scholar from India published a treatise called The Rights of Women, which one year later was followed by The Liberation of Women being published in Egypt.  Also, Grand Ayatollah Saanei, one of the ten highest-ranking clerics in Iranian Shiism, has said women should be able to hold any job, including president or supreme religious leader; women's testimony is to be of the same value as a man's; and women have the right to abortion on the grounds on "compassion".  And these are only some of the examples.

That said, this book does have its limitations.  As the author points out in her introduction, she began researching the book knowing nearly nothing about these topics.  And, accordingly, much of her insight about women and Islam in the Middle East come across as a debutant fascinated and surprised by her findings, rather than a wizened master who is able to thoroughly or exhaustively parse her topic.  The first chapter 'Why Women Matter' leaves one wondering, if a chapter on 'Why Women Matter' is required, and the following case is made solely in economic terms, has not the battle for the defense of women in Islam already been lost?  Or is the self-evident value of women today just a dead Western dream, buried as a Paradise Beneath Her Feet?

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Excited

Today I had lunch with the woman who will be my supervisor in Nairobi (she's in DC for meetings this week), and it's gotten me all excited about the work I'll be doing in Nairobi!  It sounds like they've really put a lot of thought into coming up with a good training plan and projects for me to work on, and there is a good chance that I'll get to travel a bit around the East Africa region.

Also, today my MOA (memorandum of agreement) - which is part of the paperwork I've been stressed about getting done so I can go to Nairobi on time - finally got sent to me to look over.  So hopefully things will keep moving and I will be able to keep to my (made up) schedule for getting to Nairobi.

A good, good day!

Monday, May 10, 2010

A good article on the debate currently taking place between USAID and the State Department

This is a good article about the power struggle currently taking place between USAID and the State Department over who gets to control development policy.

Wednesday, May 05, 2010

One step closer

I got my black diplomatic passport yesterday.  It still feels cool to me, even though all it really gets me is to go through the shorter line at the airport, which has never really been a big issue to me anyway.  But I guess it means I am one step closer to moving to Nairobi.  I also have a tentative "packout" date scheduled, when the movers will come to my apartment and pack up all my stuff for me and ship it to Nairobi, but there is a good chance that that will get postponed if some of my other paperwork, which seems to have gotten stuck somehow, doesn't get done soon.

Otherwise, I am just toodling along in my rotation in the Food for Peace office, which I am enjoying way more than I ever expected to.  Besides having what seems to me one of the friendliest staffs at USAID, their work is much more interesting than I had thought.  Of course it doesn't hurt that I've gotten to go to a couple of meetings at the Eisenhower Executive Office Building, the big palace-style building next to the White House (although it just looks like a regular old office building on the inside).

One more week, and then I'll be down to my last rotation before I leave, on the Somalia desk.

Michelle Obama at USAID!

Today we had a "town hall" meeting, essentially a giant staff meeting led by Administrator Shah.  He made a speech and answered a few questions from employees.  I hadn't met, or even seen in person, the Administrator yet, so that was kind of cool.

But even cooler was the "special guest" who came by to give us a pep talk and tell us what a great, important job we're doing: First Lady Michelle Obama.

Wednesday, April 07, 2010

Update (finally)

I haven't written much of anything in a while because I've just been busy studying French, so I could pass the language exam that is required for me to keep my job (even though I won't be using French in Kenya).  So there hasn't been much going on with me, just French and procrastination.  But on Monday I took my French exam (for the second time), and this time I passed!  Woohoo!  (I really hadn't expected that I would, because the test is as much about public speaking ability as about language ability, and public speaking is not my forte).

So now with my language requirement out of the way, it's back to a regular office job for me.  I'm going to be working for about six weeks on the Somalia and Ethiopia programs in the Food for Peace office (FFP is the office that sends American-grown food to places around the world where there are famines, etc).  Hopefully it will be interesting.  I'm excited about it anyway!

After my FFP rotation, I'm hoping to do another month or so rotation on the Somalia desk, which basically means I'd be coordinating/information sharing what's going on in the part of the USAID Mission in Nairobi that's dedicated to Somalia with the people in DC who do the same thing.

And then, inshallah, I will be moving to Kenya!  I'm planning for mid-June, but that's just a date I made up, so who knows if it will actually happen then.  But anyway, after so many months of what felt like stagnation in French, it is nice to finally feel like things are moving again.

Thursday, April 01, 2010

Court Authorizes Inquiry of Kenyans - NYTimes.com

Court Authorizes Inquiry of Kenyans - NYTimes.com

PARIS — The International Criminal Court has given the green light to open formal criminal investigations of the political leaders who organized the violence that shook Kenya after its disputed election in 2007, the court announced Wednesday.

Two of three court judges said that the clashes, which left more than 1,100 people dead and drove hundreds of thousands from their homes, could amount to crimes against humanity. The judges’ decision will now allow the prosecution to bring a case.